Marrakech versus Avenida Florida (shoppers delights)

For some reason I am an avid shopper (I’ll discuss that reason later). Recently during my trip to Morocco I was blessed to be able to shop, for 3 days no less, at Marrakech’s Jemal El Fna Marketplace, a world famous sprawling maze of shops and alleyways that seems to go forever in all directions. At Jemal El Fna one can buy pretty much anything from live chickens and ducks, leather goods, carvings, jewelry, clothing, fruits and vegetables, awesome carpets and rugs, and of course the staple of any great tourist attraction – cheap t-shirts.

A few years ago I had the pleasure of visiting Buenos Aires Argentina several times on business. During the after work hours my team and I would head to Avenida Florida (or Florida street as I called it) for some serious shopping. Avenida Florida was part shoppers mecca, and part entertainment hub. It was a pedestrian mall that went on for at least 10 blocks and was full of shops, stores, and even had its own indoor mall or galleria. My team and I bought lots of clothing there, especially the Argentinean specialty – wool sweaters. In Buenos Aires there are better, more upscale places to shop but few offer what Avenida Florida offer – excitement, fun (street performers, tango dancers), and a bit of danger too (don’t wander far from Florida Street at night). One time, at night, my team and I wandered a few blocks from Florida Street looking for a certain restaurant. We could feel the vibe change dramatically and we ultimately high tailed it back to “our street” for safety.

In Marrakech Jemal El Fna marketplace had a vibe or feel to it as well. That vibe translated to me as, “come tourist, shop and barter for my goods, eat at my restaurants, but be wary after dark especially and don’t wander far from me”. The marketplace, I suppose, could be intimidating to some people. Trying to walk the gauntlet of tight passageways while dodging mopeds, motorbikes, donkey carts, small cars and trucks was challenging for sure. One also must withstand the constant callings of the shopkeepers (“hey mister American, where you from? or “you from Texas, my sister lives in Texas, come into my store”). It was a crazy mad scene and it just added to the excitement.

Speaking earlier of my love for shopping I think that I have to blame a few close loved ones for that. I blame my lovely wife, my daughter Brie, my mother, and my sister. My family is ripe with shopping junkies who can go shopping nearly all day non-stop (it’s true, I’ve witnessed it many times in person). So my spending hours in the morning at the Marrakech marketplace, taking a short break for snacks, and then hitting it hard in the afternoon and evening was no surprise.

Bartering for the best price with the shopkeepers in the Jemal El Fna marketplace is expected and encouraged. I love that aspect of shopping in places like that. We did the same in Argentina. It’s a game and I love how the shopkeeper starts it off, after you ask “how much”, with an outrageous reply of a price. Of course you then come back with an outrageous counter offer and then it’s on from there. Back and forth you go until one of you gives in. I especially love the part where you, the shopper, does “the walk-away” (in essence you walk out since he won’t give you your price). Then the shopkeeper usually runs after you and ultimately you come to an agreement.

During my 3 days and nights in fabulous Marrakech I had plenty of opportunities to practice bartering and “the walk-away”. In fact in my mind I was getting pretty good at it and I may have even begun to feel cocky. On my last evening there though I met my match when I was attempting to negotiate the best price for two soccer jerseys I wanted to buy. I had bartered back and forth with this particular shopkeeper who wanted to close for the evening. He was doing an excellent job of standing firm on his price. I had done “the walk-away” but he had pulled me back in (my first mistake). Finally he gave me my price and put two jerseys in the bag. After giving him my dirhams (Moroccan money) I left the shop with one of my teammates. As we approached the plaza on the way to our hotel I decided to double-check the sizes of my jerseys (I needed XXL). To my horror and amazement the jerseys weren’t XXL, not even close. Immediately I knew I had lost that match because he had the money and in Morocco a few things are known up front, such as, 1) there are no receipts for returns, 2) there are no returns, and 3) there’s no getting your money back.

So my great bartering skills had failed me. I had forgotten to double-check the jerseys before paying and walking out. In short, we went back to the shop, and of course he didn’t have the XXL sizes in those jerseys (or any others for that matter), and I ended up with two t-shirts that I wasn’t thrilled with. That bartering episode however didn’t dampen my love of the Jemal El Fna marketplace or Marrakech at all. In fact I thoroughly enjoyed my entire Morocco experience. I would love to return some day with Barbara (and my “kids” as well) God willing and the creek don’t rise. Seeing fabulous Marrakech, the awesome Atlas Mountains, and visiting some of the Berber villages again would be so great. I would love to visit Casablanca too the next time. The people I came into contact with (even the shopkeeper who took me) were warm and friendly and they all contributed to making it easy to love Morocco. God blessed me with an awesome, amazing, and safe experience in Morocco. Next time I plan to double-check my purchases before walking out

Like anywhere else in the world it’s always buyer beware!!